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The huipil is a pre-Columbian upper garment used
by women of many indigenous groups in Mexico and Guatemala today. Huipiles
are usually composed of two or three sections or webs that are
hand woven on the pre-Hispanic backstrap loom. The huipiles
of this grouping come from the Chinantec area of northern Oaxaca,
Mexico. The language of
the Chinantec people belongs to the Otomanguean group of languages.
The huipiles of three Chinantec villages are represented here and
probably date from the 1960's and/or 1970's. Some of the garments
have a design below the neck in the shape of a rhomboid. This
is said to act as a door protecting the soul of the woman wearing
the huipil. When she dies the door opens, and her spirit leaves
her body. |
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San Lucas |
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Textiles
from San Lucas Ojitlán, Oaxaca, Mexico
The everyday huipil of Ojitlán is white, decorated
with embroidery of peacocks, "the bird with a twisted
neck", and other designs that have specific meanings. The
huipil with red as its predominant color is usually reserved
for special occasions. |
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San Felipe |
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Textiles
from San Felipe Usila, Oaxaca, Mexico
The women of Usila adorn their huipiles with ribbons and
lace. Sometimes after a huipil is woven, a dark purple
dye is painted onto several areas of the garment, hiding
the original colors. This is the only place in Mexico
where this procedure is practiced. The huipil that
is not painted shows the many colors used in its confection. |
| View
close-up of Huipil painted with dye. |
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Valle Nacional |
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Textile
from Valle Nacional, Oaxaca, Mexico
Bands of plain weave alternate with narrow bands of gauze
weave, and the huipil is then lavishly embroidered with
designs of flowers and birds. |
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Guatemalan
Textiles |
These
two textiles came from Guatemala and were a donation to the
Castañeda
Museum from one of our most generous benefactors, Richard
D. Mandell.
We take the opportunity here to thank him again for his enthusiastic
support. |
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City & State: Santa
Catarina Palopó, Department of Sololá
Ethnic Group: Cakchiquel Maya
- everyday huipil (woman's upper garment) woven on a backstrap
loom, consisting of 3 panels/webs
This huipil was made after 1970, as before that time a different
style of huipil was in use. Here in Santa Catarina and in
other areas of Guatemala, huipiles are made for the tourist
trade, but these are often inferior to and sometimes of
a different design than the huipiles the Maya women weave
for themselves.
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| City & State: Panajachel,
Department of Sololá
Ethnic Group: Cakchiquel
Maya
This woman's belt/faja, ca. 1980, was woven on a backstrap
loom with cotton, acrylic, and metallic threads and features
animal and bird designs. The top bird represents the quetzal,
the national bird of Guatemala.
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